We loved Sydney, we loved Melbourne even more, and now we
love Hobart more than that! I have always been proud to come from Vancouver,
Canada, and still am, but travel always makes you look at new places and put
them in the context of your own city, and it is clear that all three cities do
some things way, way better than Vancouver does.
Transportation for example. Both Sydney and Melbourne put
Vancouver to shame in that department. Museums. Melbourne and Hobart have way
better exhibition spaces and imaginative, well laid out displays. Keeping
history alive. Even though all three Australian cities are considerably older
than Vancouver, they seem to have been much more successful in keeping, and
using, their heritage buildings and houses. Modern buildings. Vancouver’s
highrises are almost identical in shape and materials. Here, there are slight
variations, colour is used intelligently, combinations of materials and shapes
of balconies, windows and walls make each building stand out just a little from
its neighbours, enough to be distinct from the rest without the wildness of a
London, England for example. Old and new are cheek by jowl, but it works. Green
space. Large green spaces – just grass and trees – add elegance and a sense of
calm in the middle of Australian city downtowns and neighbourhoods. Imagine Shaughnessy
boulevards and Cypress Crescent in more places. Public art. It’s everywhere
here! Whimsy. We have no whimsy in Vancouver. Nothing to make us inwardly smile
and feel a unique sense of fun and humour. New York has it. London has it. And
Sydney, Melbourne and Hobart all have it. A few of our public art pieces have
it, but as a city, we do not.
Here’s an example from Hobart. We took a ferry up to the large
and interesting Museum of New and Old Art, a privately owned collection that is
open to the public and situated on a hill overlooking the Derwent inlet. A
winery/brewery (it does both!) and very fine restaurant is next door, and the entire
area includes a lawn with a stage for free concerts. The ferry, which leaves
right from downtown, has two prices for two classes of seating: the “posh pit”,
which is an enclosed area in the bow filled with black leather seating and a
huge gold chaise lounge on the deck, includes a glass of wine or beer and
little canapes; and regular seats in the larger stern and upstairs area an decks
which are comfortable and spacious and are billed as “sitting on sheep”. The loo
is below decks and promoted as “the bilge”. See? Total whimsy, as well as an extra
income stream for the ferry that does not inconvenience or restrict the larger
population at all as the ferry is rarely if ever full. Two docks: one proudly highlighting
its “99 steps” and the other less advertised, with a ramp and buggies that
drive to the museum to accommodate those that cannot handle the steps. Whimsy
and accommodation. There is also a bus if the boat is not fancied. Now why can’t
Vancouver do something like that to the Museum of Anthropology at UBC, pretty
much the best museum we have but hard to get to for visitors? Or trips up
Indian Arm or Burrard Inlet? We do salmon barbeques well, but what about 3 Canadian
cheeses and 3 Canadian wines for $20, like we saw at a little café near the
wharf in Hobart?
The MONA’s lawn area was filled with giant pink and grey
bean bags. A trampoline area rewards boisterous jumpers with large bells that
ring if suitably agitated. A brass band plays old and new tunes. (Why not
something like this in Alexander Park on occasion?) The Moo beer kiosk and canvas-covered
wooden bench tent seating space is set up on one side. The Moorilla wine tasting
bar and café with more upmarket seating is over there. And the really fabulous
restaurant is upstairs with a great view. All can see the lawn and band stand.
A CEO’s parking space is labelled “God” and his wife’s is “God’s
Mistress” (although personally I think it should be Goddess). Little alcoves
advertise “free wifi here”, all over the city; parking place sized access
points that also act as meeting social interaction places. Areas where graffiti
art is encouraged and curated to some degree, promoting true street art that is
not profane. (Our newly painted murals along Main Street are a great version of
this I am happy to say). Street signs that warn “don’t even think of parking
here” or “you park, you die”. Slogan “Did you wash your hands?” on the inside
door of a restaurant. Public cylinders that allow you to juice your electric
car but also your iphone.
Things that are practical but just a little tongue in cheek
too. We need more of that.
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| From the inside of the Posh Pit |
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| Beazy enjoying life in the posh pit |
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| top of the food chain - parking wise |
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| beer, wine, music, pink bean bags and a view |




Beautiful writing. Thanks very much for taking the time to set down this extraordinary journey.
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